Dyne's LD-F1 (D-O concept) build

[Dyne]

Thank you.  Hopefully the renders will prove useful.


I took some time to revise the power plan to something that's closer to what's actually going on.  Firstly, I took the main power door out and replaced it with a main power switch.  Then I cleaned up the connections shown between the head and body.  

One difference from current reality is that I went ahead and removed the fuse block on the diagram, replacing the fuse holding function with my planned inline fuse holders, and the connections to the volt meter and fuses now going through a new 12V Wago connector.  I also replaced the existing Ground Bar with a planned Wago connector and removed the non-existent 5V bar.  Electrically, this is an identical setup to what the droid currently has, just with different physical components.

I added an ESP32 and logic converter pinout as well.  The pinout just makes it easier for me to see where the connections actually are supposed to be on the board. It's nothing that wasn't already shown on the plan, aside from now having the correct wire colors in that area and having the converter's ground connection with the PCA rather than with the ESP32.





LD-F1's head has now been detached in order to start cleaning up and securing his head wiring better.    I'll be taking the time to hot glue the connectors in place on the PCB pins, add clips to keep the wires from snagging, and mount the ESP32 more securely.  This will hopefully resolve his LED reboot issues.

That also let me investigate the source of the head slipping.  The relevant parts are shown in this image from post #17.



The cause is pretty much what I suspected: the Rotation Platform (yellow) is not rigid enough.  As the droid moves, the part flexes between the rotation servo and the Neck Core (orange) just enough to allow the gears to slip out of mesh briefly.  The noise dampening inserts also contribute.  I doubt I can make the platform thicker, and I suspect it was already printed solid, so I may have to get a metal version of that part made if removing the inserts doesn't help.

I also want to prevent the Tilt Servo Brackets (Red) from splaying or bending under the weight of the head, which I might be able to do by adding a brace across the front to tie them together, but if not they might need to be metal as well.

I put a bit of velcro around the Tilt Arm (blue part, in the sloped section above the tan part) to hold the tilt servo wires up out of the gearing.


Having finally gotten annoyed with one end of the coiled wire under the head constantly coming loose (it was originally hotglued in place), I finally drilled a hole in the rear underside of the large section of the head to feed it through