01-12-2018, 11:14 PM
The previous plans weren't exported as vector files, making it tough to cut them on a laser cutter. So I re-attacked the MSE-6 shell plans.
This is what I've thrown together. Basically I made a 3D model of the right dimensions, then built 1.5mm (1/16") walls for the styrene thickess, trimming the panels as needed. Because of the angles there'll still need putty to assemble.
The front of the body goes 1 1/2" (38mm) from the front of the frame. The skirt is centered on the bottom of the frame.
Kresty's MSE-6 Flat Pack
Cut out of 1.5mm or 1/16" (poly)styrene. Does not include top or side greeblies, get creative!
I included vector PDFs with thin #000 RGB lines (which is what my laser needs) and also exported them as DXF's (which I'm not sure if I did perfectly). Do not cut or etch the non-vector letters or scale!
These panels are reasonably straight, I'm sure many model makers wouldn't hesitate to hand-cut them.
There's a 100mm & 4" scale because we've already learned that lesson! Make sure it's printing/cutting at the right size.
Many of the edges are at angles, so you'll need to file or sand them down or putty them after assembly.
The "body" and "skirt" parts should be reasonably obvious.
Where the panels meet one edge has to be "outside" the other. There a .png to help, as would the 3D model. Usually the front & rear sections are outside of the "side" walls. however in the inner recess it's the other way around. Make sure they fit next to the big rectangular pieces as they should fit within the frame only one way.
This is what I've thrown together. Basically I made a 3D model of the right dimensions, then built 1.5mm (1/16") walls for the styrene thickess, trimming the panels as needed. Because of the angles there'll still need putty to assemble.
The front of the body goes 1 1/2" (38mm) from the front of the frame. The skirt is centered on the bottom of the frame.
Kresty's MSE-6 Flat Pack
Cut out of 1.5mm or 1/16" (poly)styrene. Does not include top or side greeblies, get creative!
I included vector PDFs with thin #000 RGB lines (which is what my laser needs) and also exported them as DXF's (which I'm not sure if I did perfectly). Do not cut or etch the non-vector letters or scale!
These panels are reasonably straight, I'm sure many model makers wouldn't hesitate to hand-cut them.
There's a 100mm & 4" scale because we've already learned that lesson! Make sure it's printing/cutting at the right size.
Many of the edges are at angles, so you'll need to file or sand them down or putty them after assembly.
The "body" and "skirt" parts should be reasonably obvious.
Where the panels meet one edge has to be "outside" the other. There a .png to help, as would the 3D model. Usually the front & rear sections are outside of the "side" walls. however in the inner recess it's the other way around. Make sure they fit next to the big rectangular pieces as they should fit within the frame only one way.
I build in Lego! Blogs at:
http://L3-G0.blogspot.com (or http://L3-G0.com for short)
http://MCK-Y.blogspot.com and
http://BB-8.blogspot.com
http://L3-G0.blogspot.com (or http://L3-G0.com for short)
http://MCK-Y.blogspot.com and
http://BB-8.blogspot.com